Dùdōu [pronounced doo-dough]

What is it?
Dùdōu was traditionally worn by children as a bib or by women as a camisole. It generally consists of a diamond or kite-shaped piece of cloth, mostly silk for comfort, spread out across the body like an up-side down fan with the top cut into a narrow curve to fit the neck and the bottom would be either pointy or curved. One set of strings is tied around the neck just like a halter-top and the other set of string is tied behind the back like a bikini, like shown in this cute kid’s version.

And here is an example of what the back of an adult dùdōu looks like – who said traditional can’t also be va va voom!

A classic dùdōu is bright red in colour and elaborately embroidered with auspicious designs.

For example, the mandarin ducks (which always come in a pair) shown in this picture represent love and a happy marriage.

The lotus flowers and fish in this picture are traditional fertility symbols, which are worn to achieve the good fortune of having many children (particularly sons).

 

Fun historical facts

Dùdōu was basically worn as a bra (seeing there were no bras back then in China). However, I can’t imagine it being terribly supportive or good for reducing bounce during physical labour. Nor can I imagine it having any effect at creating cleavage.

But the design did serve a particular practical function: to keep the belly warm, which in Chinese medicine is important to preventing illness (a health tip for all you crop top lovers out there!)

 

How do you wear it?

With confidence! Toned arms and back as well as a tiny waist would no doubt help. Dùdōu also really shows off the collarbone and neck areas, and with some of the more contemporary designs, a hopefully tasteful view of the sideboob.

Dùdōu has made a strong comeback as sexy lingerie or a summer top for the more daring Chinese fashionistas – such as Karen Mok’s contemporary take in this little black number, which shows off her gorgeous face shape and those slender long arms:

Or Zhang Ziyi’s dominatrix-esque version worn at Cannes in 2000, with considerably less fabric than one would normally see.

It seems that the dùdōu has not yet been re-interpreted in mainstream Western fashion so I would say that this one definitely has fashion potential!

 

Disclaimer: I do not own the copyright in these images and have used them for fair dealing purposes only. Please leave a message if you think the use of any image has violated your rights and the image will be promptly removed.

The First Lady of Chinese Haute Couture: Guo Pei, Rose Studio

Designer Bio

• Guo Pei 郭培
• Born in 1967
• Based in Beijing
• Prior to starting her own label Rose Studios (玫瑰坊), was the highly successful leading designer of a number of Chinese prêt-à-porter fashion houses
• Favourite designer is Issey Miyake
• Follow Guo Pei on Weibo: http://t.qq.com/guopei and Sina Blog: http://blog.sina.com.cn/guopei1989

Brand History

• Established in 1996
• Has more than 300 employees
• Atelier occupies more than 3,000 square metres
• One of the most favoured brands for A-list Chinese female celebrities, including Zhang Ziyi and Fan Bing Bing
• Design house of choice for 10 years for female hosts and performers of China’s biggest annual television event, the CCTV Chinese New Year Eve Gala (akin to the UK Royal Variety Performance)
• Key designer for the 2008 Olympic Games

(Here is Guo Pei fitting the models with one of her designs at the Olympic Games – the design is simple yet fresh)

Style Dissection

• Opulent, theatrical, imposing, regal and larger than life
• Unmistakeably oriental in design inspiration
• Lady Gaga meets Empress Dowager Cixi

Key Works

• Key piece from the porcelain dress collection, exhibited 2013 (This collection exemplifies the core aesthetic of the label, in that the designs draw heavily from traditional art but at the same time deftly employ ultra modern techniques and shapes to create a unique and striking look.)

• Story of the dragon, 2012 (This dress simply astounds with its aura and presence.)

• 1002 Nights Collection, 2009 (This outfit which closed the show is so incredibly majestic and would have swallowed up any lesser beings other than the magnificent 78 year old supermodel Carmen Dell’orefice)

• CCTV Chinese New Year Eve Gala, 2008, Zhang Ziyi performing The Fairy Scattering Flowers (This would be many little girl’s ultimate pink and fluffy dream dress.)

For even more goodies, visit Rose Studio’s website at: http://www.rosestudio.com.cn/

 

 

 

Disclaimer: I do not own the copyright in these images and have used them for review and criticism purposes only. Please leave a message if you think the use of any image has violated your rights and the image will be promptly removed.

Qípaó [pronounced chi-pao]

What is it?

Better known in the West by the name “cheongsam”, it is a fitted dress, which is usually long and made of embroidered silk, worn by Chinese women for more formal occasions.

The key features of the qípaó are its mandarin (or stand-up) collar, wrap dress style, snug fit and thigh splits. Everything else is pretty much negotiable – it can have any combination of sleeve, hem or split lengths or styles and a variety of textures, patterns and colours for the fabric, piping or buttons. And it is in this variation that the qípaó can convey different looks.

A more wholesome and fresh look, à la Tang Wei as an innocent student at the beginning in “Lust Caution”, can be achieved with a more pastel palette, higher neckline, longer sleeve and by wearing the hair down and straight.

But the qípaó is just as suited for sexy. Here is Tang Wei again in the same movie post her transformation as a seductress. The difference some bright colours, bold patterns and see through material make! And all this with no cleavage or midriff in sight.

My favourite interpretation of the qípaó however is the more classic take in Wong Kar Wai’s “In the Mood for Love” (featuring a staggering 23 gorgeous pieces). The pattern on this sleeveless version, which also has a taller collar for visually slimming the face, is nothing short of breathtaking. Maggie Cheung in this dress is a perfect sample of the demure, gentle and delicate Chinese femininity which is wonderfully alluring in its subtlety and elegance.

 

Fun historical facts

Although seen as the traditional dress of choice for Chinese women, qípaó is neither Chinese nor traditional!

Qípaó literally means “Manchurian robe” – it was originally worn by the Manchus, who were the non-ethnically Han Chinese rulers of the last imperial dynasty of China. Manchuria is in modern-day north-eastern China bordering Mongolia.

It enjoyed its first big moment in the fashion spotlight belatedly in the 1920s. (And here is a Coco-Cola poster of the times to prove how modern a qípaó -wearing lady was!)

(Source: http://www.coca-cola.com.cn)

This may partly have been to do with the fact that the early qípaó designs were anything but flattering to the female figure and more closely resembled an elaborately embroidered sack. Thankfully, the fashion conscious ladies of Shanghai of the era demanded tighter (fit), shorter (hemline) and higher (splits) and that is the version which we see today. The qípaó has come in and out of vogue a number of times since then but has seen a huge revival in recent years, particularly as an alternative to the big white dress in wedding photos.

How do you wear it?

To achieve the classic look, when wearing a qípaó, your hair should always be perfectly coiffed (think Betty Draper) and generally up is better than down. Pumps or court shoes in a block colour would be the perfect match, depending on the colour of your qípaó. Red lippy and nails go a long way in completing the look, as do brooches and pearls. And for a real vintage touch, why not also bring out the (dare I say skin-coloured) stockings!

For a modern look, cue Kate Moss in this gorgeous and flirty version (the cap sleeves really enhance the long and slender lines formed by the arms):

(Source: http://katemossfashion.com/2009/10/kate-moss-topshop-christmas-09-collection-oriental-fashion-influence/)

And for the cosplay fans, Chun-Li (I’m sure the thigh splits are for functional purposes only):

The most important tip of all is that the beauty of the qípaó is all about the silhouette and so don’t be afraid to pull out the Spanx!

 

 

 

Disclaimer: I do not own the copyright in these images and have used them for fair dealing purposes only. Please leave a message if you think the use of any image has violated your rights and the image will be promptly removed.